The Peter-pan collar, or in menswear, the Club Collar, is a mysterious and painful sewing experience. “But it is so adorable!” you say. I couldn’t agree more, so I’ll show you how I attach it. I actually stole this construction idea from American Apparel.
First, you start with your pattern. I can’t release this one because it’s for sale this season, but as soon as the season’s over, I promise I will share.
I’ve made this blouse with all french seams, which I highly recommend for sheer and light fabrics—it gives a much better finish and holds up in the wash. You will, of course, need to line the collar with interfacing and straight attachment piece to keep it from puckering.
Sew along the outer edge of the collar pieces, attaching the top, interface, and bottom together. Here is the set up all together and clipped.
Make sure whenever you are working with pairs of things to work them in mirror images. When you turn the collars and iron, make sure they’re turned the opposite direction of each other. Because the fabric is sheer, the seam will show up teeth-like on one side and not the other. You’ll want to keep that side as the underside of the collar.
Sew on the straight piece to the turned collars. This will be a little difficult since the strips are so thin. An over stitch will help keep it flipped in place at the end.
And now we attach this firm and stiff collar to the shirt. This part is a little tricky; the key is to stitch it on twice, once for the inside seam, once for the outside seam—this uses one side of the collar strip to act as facing and close up all the fringes.
This is the outside half of the seam; it goes on first.
This is the inside half, it folds over all everything so it looks neat. The incline used because the front of the collar (the round part) really does poorly with any bulk.
Stitch it all up and it’s done!